If you're getting in to beekeeping, you'll quickly realize that selecting the most appropriate beehive deep frames is 1 of the most significant decisions you'll make for your colony's development. These frames aren't just pieces associated with wood or plastic shoved into the box; they are the literal skeleton of the hive. They contain the darling, the pollen, and most importantly, the following generation of bees.
When you first open a directory or browse an online shop, the amount of options may feel a bit overwhelming. You've got different materials, various foundation types, plus different price factors. But honestly, once you understand exactly why we use deeps rather than mediums or even shallows for particular tasks, it all begins to click. Let's break down what makes these frames tick and the way to pick the ones that will won't drive you crazy during your own first few examinations.
Why We Use Deep Frames for the Brood Nest
Most beekeepers in North The united states use the Langstroth system, and within that system, the particular beehive deep frames are the heavy hitters. They will typically sit in the bottom a couple of boxes of the particular hive, which we all call "deeps. " This area will be the brood chamber. It's where the princess or queen spends the majority of the girl time laying eggs and in which the employees nurse the larvae.
The main reason all of us use deep frames here is pretty simple: space. A deep frame provides the large, uninterrupted surface area for that full to lay a solid pattern associated with eggs. If a person used smaller frames, the queen might have to jump across gaps in between boxes more often, which could sometimes affect her flow. The big, healthy body of capped brood is a beautiful sight, and the deep size enables the colony to expand rapidly throughout the spring build-up.
However, there's a trade-off. The single beehive deep body filled with honey can weigh upwards of 7 to 10 pounds. When you have ten of those in the container, plus the weight of the container itself, you're looking at a 90-pound lift. That's exactly why most folks don't use deep frames for their particular honey supers (the boxes on best where we harvest honey). We usually stick to mediums or shallows for the honey so we all don't blow out our backs throughout harvest season.
The Great Argument: Wood vs. Plastic
This is usually one of those topics beekeepers will argue about over coffee for hours. Neither is usually "wrong, " but they definitely feel different when you're working with them.
Wooden frames are the traditional selection. There's something actually satisfying regarding the smell of pine plus the way a wooden frame senses in your hand. They're generally made of high-grade pinus radiata or cedar and require assembly. You'll be sitting at your kitchen table along with a hammer, a few tiny nails, plus maybe some wood glue. If a person like DIY projects, you'll probably take pleasure in this part. Wood is also "breathable" and feels more natural to the particular bees. The downside? Wood can rot over time, and if you're not careful along with your hive tool, you are able to splinter the particular top bars when you're prying all of them apart.
Upon the other hands, plastic beehive deep frames are usually becoming incredibly well-known because they're essentially indestructible. You don't have to put together them—they come because one solid item. You can clean them down having a hive tool without having to worry about gouging the particular wood, and they will won't warp or even rot if the hive gets the bit damp. A few older beekeepers state bees don't such as plastic as much, but if the plastic is coated in the nice layer associated with beeswax, the bees usually don't treatment one bit. They'll jump directly on this and start building.
Understanding Base Options
Within your beehive deep frames , you need several sort of "map" to tell the bees where to build their wax. That's what the basis is for. With no it, bees are notorious for developing "cross-comb, " that is a tangled mess associated with wax that makes it impossible in order to pull frames to inspection.
- Wax-Coated Plastic Base: This is probably the almost all common choice nowadays. It's a page of plastic with a hexagonal pattern embossed on it, coated in the thin layer of real beeswax. It's tough, it doesn't sag in hot weather, and if the bees mess up the comb, you may just scrape it off and allow them start over.
- True Beeswax Foundation: This will be for the purists. It's a slim sheet of 100% beeswax, often strengthened with small cables. It smells incredible and the bees absolutely love it. The catch? It's fragile. If you're spinning these frames in a honey extractor, they may blow apart if you go too fast. They furthermore tend to sag if the hive will get too hot in the summer sunlight.
- Foundationless: Some people prefer to allow the bees do whatever they would like. They'll use beehive deep frames with just a small "starter strip" or a wedge of wood at the very top. This results within one of the most natural comb, however it requires the lot of interest. You have in order to make sure your own hive is properly level, or the particular bees will construct the comb with an angle, sticking all your frames together.
Sustaining Your Frames regarding the Long Carry
You may think you just place the frames in and leave them there forever, but beehive deep frames actually need a bit of maintenance. Over period, the wax in the brood nest turns dark—almost black. This happens because of "cocoon buildup" and the bees tracking propolis and pollen over the cells.
Most experienced beekeepers recommend rotating out there about 20% associated with your frames every year. This helps keep the hive clear and reduces typically the buildup of environment toxins or pathogens that can obtain trapped in outdated wax. When the frame gets too dark and cool, you scrape the wax off (or toss the entire framework if it's plastic) and give them a fresh start.
Another issue to watch with regard to is propolis . Bees are obsessed along with sealing cracks, and they will use "bee glue" (propolis) to stick your frames to the container and to each other. When you're inspecting your beehive deep frames , you'll need to occurs hive tool in order to gently pry them loose. If you overlook it too longer without an inspection, it can experience like the frames are welded in to the box.
Tips for Easier Inspections
Functioning with deep frames requires a bit of technique. Because they're larger, they can be awkward to change over. When you're looking for the california king or checking intended for eggs, never turn a frame flat like you're looking at an e book. If it's a very hot day and the polish is heavy along with honey, the entire comb could literally glide right from the frame.
Rather, rotate the framework like a steering wheel or keep it vertical while you change it. It keeps the weight backed by the frame's edges. It's the small trick, yet it saves a lot of "oh no" times in the bee yard.
Furthermore, take notice of the "bee area. " Beehive deep frames are usually designed to depart exactly 3/8ths of the inch of room between them. In case you push your own frames together as well tightly or leave them too much aside, the bees may fill that extra space with "burr comb. " This is extra polish that makes the mess and can unintentionally crush bees (or the queen! ) when you're shifting things around. Constantly slide your frames back together therefore the side pubs are touching before you decide to close the beehive.
Is This Worth Buying Pre-Assembled?
If you're only starting with one or 2 hives, you might wonder if you should purchase your beehive deep frames pre-assembled or build all of them yourself. Honestly, when you have the time, developing them is the great way in order to find out how the beehive fits together. It's also cheaper. Yet let's be real—if you're busy and just would like to get your bees settled, purchasing pre-assembled, pre-waxed frames is a lifesaver. It ensures almost everything is square plus sturdy, which makes a huge difference when you're trying to pry a stuck frame out of a sticky hive.
With the end of the day, your own bees just require a solid place to call home. Regardless of whether you go along with traditional wood plus wax or contemporary plastic, choosing quality beehive deep frames ensures your colony has the foundation it needs to thrive. Remember in order to keep them clear, space them properly, and maybe do some bicep curls—because those deeps obtain heavy once the nectar starts flowing!